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“You know what I’m thinking - The Camino is like life. Sometimes it tells you where to go and it’s easy, and sometimes you get lost and you have to figure it out for yourself.” Nir Varon, a pilgrim from Israel and one of now 300,000 people who wal

“You know what I’m thinking - The Camino is like life. Sometimes it tells you where to go and it’s easy, and sometimes you get lost and you have to figure it out for yourself.”

Nir Varon, a pilgrim from Israel and one of now 300,000 people who walk the Camino de Santiago every year. Nir is a triathlete, so 30 kilometres in a day was far too easy for him. We travelled together for over two weeks on the Camino, but parted ways on Nir’s third consecutive 40+km day. I had a rest day of 18km. Here he walks through the Basque Country - one of four Provinces of the Camino del Norte - with his carrots. Nir had recently watched ‘Gamechangers,’ and turned vegan on the Camino.

Before I reached it, I avoided looking at any pictures of the Cathedral de Santiago to save the splendour of the finish line for the day I crossed it. Since the ninth century, pilgrims have undertaken this pilgrimage to Santiago to visit the shrine

Before I reached it, I avoided looking at any pictures of the Cathedral de Santiago to save the splendour of the finish line for the day I crossed it. Since the ninth century, pilgrims have undertaken this pilgrimage to Santiago to visit the shrine of Saint James, typically from their doorsteps in places as far away as Poland. I looked forward to standing in front of it with 850kms behind me, but I was most excited for the 850kms themselves.

My love / hate relationship with the Camino didn’t take long to develop, as the forest floors’ blanket of fallen leaves informed me that my shoes were not, in fact, waterproof. The most unquestionably beautiful forest took no prisoners of my socks.

My love / hate relationship with the Camino didn’t take long to develop, as the forest floors’ blanket of fallen leaves informed me that my shoes were not, in fact, waterproof. The most unquestionably beautiful forest took no prisoners of my socks. It wasn’t supposed to rain every other day, and yet, my climbing shoes proved to be a bad option.

Thankfully - it’s not too easy to get lost on the Camino. Arrows, or ‘fletchas,’ point all the way to Santiago. The only flipside is the inevitable stress when one isn’t spotted for a kilometre or two. Luckily there were only ever reasonably-minor d

Thankfully - it’s not too easy to get lost on the Camino. Arrows, or ‘fletchas,’ point all the way to Santiago. The only flipside is the inevitable stress when one isn’t spotted for a kilometre or two. Luckily there were only ever reasonably-minor detours, often when it was raining.

Marie and Steffi, best friends from Germany. I met them on day one, at the first resting spot in the hills outside of Irun. I travelled much of the following week with them, until they finished their journey in Bilbao, by which stage a small group o

Marie and Steffi, best friends from Germany. I met them on day one, at the first resting spot in the hills outside of Irun. I travelled much of the following week with them, until they finished their journey in Bilbao, by which stage a small group of four Germans, one Israeli and one Australian had formed.

Albergues are where pilgrims can stay whilst walking the Camino. They are hostels specifically for pilgrims, and if you are walking the Camino de Santiago - you are a pilgrim. This one had a kitchen, so I was able to cook - and underestimated how sp

Albergues are where pilgrims can stay whilst walking the Camino. They are hostels specifically for pilgrims, and if you are walking the Camino de Santiago - you are a pilgrim. This one had a kitchen, so I was able to cook - and underestimated how spicy the communal chili was. Luckily, Lea Bai, a pilgrim from Germany, didn’t mind. I photographed her here as I cooked.

Morning – day three. The Camino del Norte - or Northern Way - is one of several popularised routes to Santiago. Stretching East to West across Spain’s northern coast it passes through Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia, all with their o

Morning – day three. The Camino del Norte - or Northern Way - is one of several popularised routes to Santiago. Stretching East to West across Spain’s northern coast it passes through Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia, all with their own distinct charms, feels and landscapes. This is Basque Country.

A well-deserved rest. Pilgrims Lea Bai and Nir Varon, who very quickly became best mates. It was here where disaster struck: Lea had lost her water bottle. Thankfully there were nuts and chickpeas going around.

A well-deserved rest. Pilgrims Lea Bai and Nir Varon, who very quickly became best mates. It was here where disaster struck: Lea had lost her water bottle. Thankfully there were nuts and chickpeas going around.

‘La luce e bonito per un foto,’ I both told and asked this woman who was working on her patch as I approached her from the path. The treeline on my left side had been tall – blocking me from the morning sun, until it opened up and introduced me to h

‘La luce e bonito per un foto,’ I both told and asked this woman who was working on her patch as I approached her from the path. The treeline on my left side had been tall – blocking me from the morning sun, until it opened up and introduced me to her.

Translation: ‘The light is beautiful for a photo.’

On the morning of October 10, 2019 - I started my Camino journey. 15 minutes after leaving the Albergue at 0600 in the dark, I was standing at a traffic light next to someone I had noticed the night before. She was crying. I didn’t ask but started t

On the morning of October 10, 2019 - I started my Camino journey. 15 minutes after leaving the Albergue at 0600 in the dark, I was standing at a traffic light next to someone I had noticed the night before. She was crying. I didn’t ask but started talking to her. We shared the morning and in turn much of the next five weeks together, where I would learn about her father, who she lost to cancer a few weeks before starting her journey.

Her name is Lea

The tranquil atmosphere of religious spaces has drawn me to them in recent years, just to sit and think in the presence of prayer. Having heard nothing more than the beauty of the Cathedral in Santiago, I looked forward to experiencing it from the i

The tranquil atmosphere of religious spaces has drawn me to them in recent years, just to sit and think in the presence of prayer. Having heard nothing more than the beauty of the Cathedral in Santiago, I looked forward to experiencing it from the inside. Here a couple pray together at the shrine of Saint James, the Patron Saint of Spain, as millions have done for centuries. And so, the Camino is known as ‘The Way of St James’.

The Northern Way is the only Camino to follow the coast, often across the beaches themselves – a welcome opportunity to remove my climbing shoes and feel the sand between my toes. It also crosses mountains...rather large mountains.

The Northern Way is the only Camino to follow the coast, often across the beaches themselves – a welcome opportunity to remove my climbing shoes and feel the sand between my toes. It also crosses mountains...rather large mountains.

I arrived in Irun - the starting point of the Camino del Norte – on October 9. Due to set off West to Santiago the following day, I walked in the opposite direction to the Santiago Bridge, which separates France and Spain in Spain’s north-eastern co

I arrived in Irun - the starting point of the Camino del Norte – on October 9. Due to set off West to Santiago the following day, I walked in the opposite direction to the Santiago Bridge, which separates France and Spain in Spain’s north-eastern corner.

Pozueta – an Albergue. One of the more beautiful and more memorable ones I stayed in. Some Albergues only have a pot and some spoons, others are a family home welcoming you to rest and dine with them, and sometimes their cats.

Pozueta – an Albergue. One of the more beautiful and more memorable ones I stayed in. Some Albergues only have a pot and some spoons, others are a family home welcoming you to rest and dine with them, and sometimes their cats.

Into the woods…

Into the woods…

Speaking of cats. After a cold, wet night in my tent near the beach in Poo (yep, that’s the name of the town), the feline welcoming party upon arrival at this Albergue in Asturias was something special. Albergues can be many, many kilometres apart o

Speaking of cats. After a cold, wet night in my tent near the beach in Poo (yep, that’s the name of the town), the feline welcoming party upon arrival at this Albergue in Asturias was something special. Albergues can be many, many kilometres apart on the Northern Way, and in the low season some don’t stay open. I found out the hard way.

I started photographing this scene from the gate by the road until I caught one of their eyes and I gestured to come closer. A rare insight into local farming practices, both fortunate and heart-breaking to photograph.

I started photographing this scene from the gate by the road until I caught one of their eyes and I gestured to come closer. A rare insight into local farming practices, both fortunate and heart-breaking to photograph.

Cantabria.

Cantabria.

With 20kms to go from Arca to Santiago, you know it’s the last day. After weeks of constant downpour leading up to it, on the final day the clouds parted. I shared that final day with Lea Bai, who I had shared the first day and much of my Camino jo

With 20kms to go from Arca to Santiago, you know it’s the last day. After weeks of constant downpour leading up to it, on the final day the clouds parted. I shared that final day with Lea Bai, who I had shared the first day and much of my Camino journey with, forming a friendship I value as highly as any, over 850kms of blood, sweat and tears. As the sun shone down on us outside of Santiago, we stopped to thank her father for keeping us safe, hoping that he is at peace. This is the first photograph I took of the cathedral.

My moment for tranquillity had come – or so I thought. In the cathedral I was disturbed to hear drills, hammers and the constant clang of metal on metal and men at work. With canvas dust sheets hanging from the apparently beautiful ceilings it was i

My moment for tranquillity had come – or so I thought. In the cathedral I was disturbed to hear drills, hammers and the constant clang of metal on metal and men at work. With canvas dust sheets hanging from the apparently beautiful ceilings it was impossible to see from one wall to the next. Thankfully, I found a little chapel where some candles had been lit, reminding me always to lower my expectations of the destination, and to appreciate the journey.

The Bay of Biscal

The Bay of Biscal